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Talk about magical! Dubrovnik has it all. Scenic beauty, powerful history, "quaint" buildings, emotional memories of recent trauma and evidence of resilience of spirit.

And the ferry trip from Split ($25AUS) - a spectacular journey through beautiful Adriatic islands. And the bus trip back to Split, through Bosnia-Herzegovina - the most spectacular road in the world as far as I am concerned. I think it is more stunning than the Great Ocean Road (Oz), Highway 1(USA), the Ring of Kerry or the Dingle Peninsular (Ireland)or the Amalfi Drive(Italy). I think it is the number of close islands along the Adriatic coast. You never have "just" miles of ocean, and the mountains really do tumble down to the sea.

There is a little finger of Bosnia-Herzegovina that dissects Croatia so it can have an opening to the sea. We went through the full customs formalities to cross and then stopped at one of the cheapest duty-free shops we found anywhere in the world.

The old Custom's House.

The old city gate - across the moat (now a garden) with St Blaise protecting the city.

Evening light from the old city across to the hotels and villas of the tourist trade.

The island of Korcula . A stunning island in the Adriatic on the way to Dubrovnik.

The old and the new - satellite dishes mingling with the old terracotta roofs in the Old Town

From the city walls - red roofs tumbling down to the clear Adriatic.

Another view of Korcula island from the ferry

The marina in the Old Town looking towards the hills where the Serbian Army sat and lobbed mortar after mortar into the old city.

The Rector's Palace - next to the Cathedral

The marina at dusk.

The churches in Croatia were very spartan compared to most of the churches throughout Europe - both east and west

Typical street in the old city - narrow, uneven, cobbled and very, very steep.

Red roofs of Dubrovnik from the city walls. It take an hour or two to walk around the walls - you do walk very slowly because you are constantly admiring the views and taking photos.

Approaching the island of Korcula

Across the rooftops

Because of the bombing and shelling, many of the roofs are new and the old ones really stand out.

The Stations of the Cross in the Cathedral were certainly unique.

Main Street - the Stradun. It apparently took over 45 direct mortar hits during the war with Serbia.

A beautiful Pieta over the entrance to the Franciscan Church.

The little Onofrio fountain - not named after Bobby Goran!! Onofrio was a great Croatian (or was it Italian?) architect.

Recovery from the war is amazing but you still find some ruins that have been left.

A little side street off the Stradun.

I said they were narrow, steep and uneven. You could have a very nasty accident if you came home drunk.

Part of the restored city walls. I think they must have got a lot of UN help for the restoration - it is all done so beautifully and quickly.

On most of the corners of the wall are little shrines like this - city protectors no doubt!

An apartment complex in the Old City

Croatian flag flies proudly over the city gate.

An old shrine in the walls of the Old City

The Clocktower of the Dominican Church

The clocktower in context.

The exterior of the Customs House

An old scales in the Customs House

The Dominican Cloisters

Gundulic's Square - just off Stradun.

Looking towards Fort Redelin from the city walls.

Fort Lovrijenac just outside the Old City walls

The Cathedral

The grand Onofrio fountain - it was not meant as decoration but as a water source for the town.

The Homeland War Memorial. Very simple - very evocative. Photos of every one of the more than 200 men who gave their lives defending Dubrovnik from the Serbs.

The marina and fishermen with their catch

Rector's palace doors

Looking towards the new town from the city walls

St Saviors Church still has plenty of reminders of the war.

St Ignatius Church is a bit more elaborate and more like the usual European church.

Both old and new roofs

The roofline of the Church of St Blaise - the patron saint of Dubrovnik.

St Sebastian's church

The Stradun